by Geoffery Morris
››There’s old, and there’s new old. Andy Glazer transformed the old Silvermine Inn into the new old Tavern at GrayBarns (with an inn and shop as well). Rustic beams frame the airy dining room—adorned with cushioned bench seating, a stone fireplace, and golden-wiry light fixtures.
Super professional staff serve fresh and inspired dishes, created by Chef Ben Freemole. Starters consist of tuna tartare with avocado, Korean chilis, and sesame ($22); Spanish octopus ($24); Denver lamb ribs ($24); and a few choice salads ($18). For the main dishes, there is a nice balance of seafood and meat: whole branzino ($33); red snapper with ginger dashi and Chinese broccoli ($39); raclette cheeseburger ($28); duck breast with huckleberry, farro, and turnips ($40); and King Trumpet mushrooms with relish, pine nuts, and spring broccoli ($26).
Cleverly fun signature cocktails include the Pineapple Campfire Sour (Banhez mescal with pineapple, egg whites, and bitters), Make It Snap Pea (snap-pea-infused gin, yuzu, and mint syrup), and a Cardagroni (Sazerac rye, cardamaro, Campari). There is an ample and impressive wine list as well. Near the dining room is an elegant, ten-seat bar with four tables along a bank of windows along the Silvermine River. A private dining room is a half flight above the main dining room.
Tavern At GrayBarns: 194 Perry Ave., Norwalk, 203-580-1900 tavernatgraybarns.com
