For the owners of 109 Cheese and Wine in Ridgefield and Fairfield Cheese Company, running a cheese shop is not about making a living; it’s a way of living. “To us, this is a lifestyle. We encourage our customers to grab a picnic basket, go for a drive, and spend time in nature enjoying simple, delicious food,” says Todd Brown, who co-owns 109 Cheese and Wine with his wife Monica. Open in 2009, the store is a testament to the couple’s love for good food and friendship.
In 2018, they opened a second location in Kent, and in 2022, they opened Wknddrvr, an art gallery and clubhouse for vintage car enthusiasts next door. “It’s a place to share knowledge and celebrate our passions,” Todd explains.
The shop’s gallery wall features artful pictures of vintage cars taken by famed photographers. I take it all in as I sample a gooey grilled cheese constructed with their signature cheese blend and the addition of a caramelized onion jam. I dip the sandwich into a cup of their tomato soup for a taste of comfort food from childhood—only better.
In addition to cheese, Todd says that his shop offers another dairy product: butter. “One day, we put butter out for a tasting, and people were asking, ‘What kind of cheese is this?’” His eyes light up, and he chuckles. “We’re like, no, really, it’s not cheese…it’s butter.”
While they are big on social media, butterboards can be difficult to comprehend, until one realizes that high quality butter is completely different from a supermarket butter. “We use beautiful hand-churned butter and place items like fresh bread and good meats around them,” says Todd.
According to Todd, charcuterie boards will continue to be a mainstay in entertaining.“With good cheese and good charcuterie, there are no chemicals. It’s all clean,” Todd says. “Food should be simple. Food should be good. Food should be real.”
Laura Downey and her business partner, Chris Palumbo, are also purists. They opened Fairfield Cheese Company at 2090 Post Road, Fairfield, in 2009. Wine Enthusiast magazine named the shop one of the 10 most iconic cheese shops in America.
“We always knew if we were going to do this, we were going to do it right,” Laura says with the authority of an American Cheese Society Certified Cheese Professional, a distinction she and Chris both hold, one that is given annually to only a few hundred people nationwide.
They expanded and opened the Greenwich Cheese shop on 154 E. Putnam Ave in 2014 and, most recently, Cheesemonger Box, an e-commerce website. “People will travel miles for a good cheese shop,” Laura explains.
Cheese selcetions often vary with the seasons. “Spring and summer cheeses coincide with the weather warming up. The cheeses are lighter, a little brighter, and not as heavy. So, they match the way people want to eat. You will see softer, fresher cheeses, which are only available at certain times of year,” says Laura.
The shop is busy, bright, and scented with the pungent aroma cheese lovers adore.
“Hi, Phil,” Laura calls over her shoulder to a customer as she leads me to the largest selection of tinned fish in Fairfield County. “Tinned fish has become another item that more Americans are seeking,” she says. “It’s an easy way to entertain. You buy a few baguettes, pop open the tins, and your guests put it on bread and enjoy a glass of nice wine,” Laura explains.
I sample sardines in brava on fresh sourdough bread. The taste is not as “fishy” as I feared.
Another change she has seen is the demographics of clientele. Laura notes a demand for quality, especially among millennial shoppers.”We have seen an influx of young 30-something customers from New York City. They will spend more money on good food. They want to know where their food is from.”
Customer Miki Nakano fits that bill. Now living in Washington, D.C., the twenty-six-year-old grew up in Manhattan and attended Middlebury College. Her parents own a weekend home in Fairfield and she worked on a sustainable farm in Vermont over the summer.
“I fell in love with the Vermont food scene at Middlebury. This past summer, I participated in the ASLF apprenticeship, where I developed a much deeper appreciation for local cheeses and churned butter. I love that I can get a taste of Vermont whenever I visit my parents in Fairfield,” Miki says.
Interested in learning more about artisanal cheeses?
At 109 Cheese and Wine, you can partake in various classes and hands-on events, from en plein air gatherings to cheese and wine tastings and cooking classes.
The Fairfield and Greenwich Cheese Company offers educational experiences ranging from “Cheese 101” to seasonal-themed courses to curated trips. They will host Brie & Bubbly Around Paris this May. •
